Wild flowers - Aspens...what is the difference?

In central California there is a season of wildflowers which many to got great length to view and be among.
As fall came here in Santa Fe, the bowl of the ski basin began to turn bright yellow.  This might leave one to believe there was a field of wildflowers growing there.  However, there is a sense of scale that is off and taking a bike ride up Artist Road and Hyde Park Road into the ski basin it becomes apparent that the yellow mass seen to the north east of Santa Fe is really a large grove of Aspen trees.


The video pretty much explains it all...

Nolichuckey Bluffs and the Tennessee Twisties

Tennessee and totally cool roads were never something I would have thought of using in the same sentence. Until this last week that is.  While staying at Nolichuckey Bluffs in Greenville, I happened to go on a car ride with my brother on a whim and was totally stunned by the amazing potential riding basically right off his doorstep.

Heading south highway 70  is a narrow ribbon of road is one of those beautiful pieces of engineering that has almost no straightaway for miles and miles.  A few short miles south we crossed into North Carolina.  

Along the  fly fisherman flocked, like well, flies along the side of the 208.

The trees even at this time of year formed a type of tunnel making the mountains seem dark and foreboding, much like I imagined the Smoky Mountains would look like.

Enjoy the video....more to come.

That voice leading in my head...pt.1

One of the things I keep on my desk at my "day job" is a list of ten things to do to reduce daily stress.  One of the things on the list is "always have something to look forward to."   For the last six weeks I have been looking forward to a trip to the American Indian reservation at Window Rock, AZ.

I actually took a day off from work and gave myself a three day weekend and headed out.   I was a little, actually a lot, apprehensive about what was going to transpire at our destination.

My riding partner and I were suppose to meet up with a Shaman on "the rez" to do a sweat and possibly some other types of ceremonies.  I was excited about the sweat and the ceremonies, but apprehensive because I was informed that the Shaman may or may not show up.   I also found at the last minute that we may or may not have shelter.    I was OK with that, sort of, sleeping in the arroyo somewhere...but I was not totally thrilled about it.

Nevertheless at eight AM we met at Java Joe's to get caffeined up and make our final preparations.  After making sure our caffeine levels were correct we headed south on I-25 toward Albuquerque then head west on I-40 toward Gallup, NM. 

It was a long, mostly boring ride as the slab from Albuquerque to Gallup is more reminicent of southern New Mexico to wit dry, brown and boring.  At Gallup we turned north on US 491 (Previously US 666) and things began to get more interesting.  Large, oddly shaped rocks and red buttes normally associated with norther New Mexico began to appear. 

As we grew close to our destination there were some large stones that were more intriguing than the others appeared in the distance..

Bohemian

I had a suitably Bohemian weekend with my Santa Fe friends.   I had a need today and another one of my "mad" friends (Refer to Ginsberg to put that in context)  gifted me exactly what I needed.   I gifted back with some music and he seem pleased.   Back to five days of corporate life tomorrow....yeah!

'till next time...

Cameron

Rolling with the "Beats"

I recently picked up a book at the library called "The Beat Reader."    One thing anyone who is familiar with this literature could probably agree on is that it is Leftist to say the least.  In the context of this post I wish it were possible to strip the Lword of its chequred baggage and use it as a descriptive word only.

To get to the point, I am having a great day today living the Beat life.  There was a time not too long ago when I didn't think I would ever say that, given my Objectivist ideals.  But, personal and prolonged brushes with poverty have a powerful influence.

Even more to the point is I enjoy the relationship I have with the other members of the Hooligans.  We are all fans of Beat writing and have many discussions about books and philosophy.   The outcome of this type of thinking is nobody goes without in the group.  Just like today.

I met one of the Hooligans for coffee and only had three dollars in my wallet and an empty gas tank.  The other Hooligan is question had 23 dollars.  I told him I could only have coffee that morning because we were in-between paychecks and I had no money.  With out even a thought the twenty dollars was split into two ten dollar tanks of gas.  We chose a shorter ride than originally planned to accommodate the comfortable range of the bikes in question.  When we got to our destination we pooled what money we had, scrounged for a little change and asked the young lady behind the rough, wooden coffee bar if we could get two of something for that amount of money.  Turns out it was just the right amount with a little left over for tip.

We came home broke, but happy in a morning well spent.

See the rest of the pix HERE

Hangin' out at the Holy Ghost Campground

It has been a long hard winter in Santa Fe and spring is just now reluctantly emerging.  Even with the days warming up, the windows of opportunity for pleasant weather riding are still rather narrow.  Mornings are cold and the wind tends to blow fiercely in the afternoon.   One of the beautiful things about living in or visiting this area are the number of good rides in easy reach.  One of these mini-adventures that is particularly inviting is a visit to the "Holy Ghost" camping area.  The entire adventure is just over 80 miles but takes one out into a wonderful wilderness world.

Heading "north" on US-25

From Santa Fe the entire trip is just about 80 miles but it seems much farther because it takes one deep into the world of the wilderness.    Travel north north on US 25 which oddly enough heads south initially.  Travel seven miles to exit 299/NM 50.  NM 50 vectors south east through the storied town of Pecos.  The speed limit along this rural route is 45 miles and hour and rather strictly enforced.  Drivers are courteous but not always entirely aware of their surroundings.  

                      Art gallery in Pecos, NM

At the intersection of NM 50 and NM 63 turn north.  The outskirts of Pecos continue for another mile or two and the urge to twist the throttle must be resisted.  Soon, however, civilization falls away and freedom of both motor and mind are attainable.  

The road signs are marked will continue to point the way towards Cowles, NM.  Points of interest along the way include the Pecos Benedictine Monastery and the Lisbosa Springs fish hatchery.  

            The road to the Holy Ghost - don't worry it get worse!

At Tererro there is a sharp and easy to miss turn to the north west which is marked intriguingly "Holy Ghost,"  referring to the "Holy Ghost" campground which lies at roads end.  

Although this road is accessible on any street bike caution is indicated, and if you just can't bear to get a chip in that $5000 paint job you might want to give it a miss.  That caveat aside this little ribbon of pavement is a ton of first and second gear technical fun.  

The center of the road is liberally strewn with pebbles and sharp gravel so riding a clean line is a necessity.  The edge of the high and fragrant  conifer forest meets the rider to the right and large, broad valleys rise and fall hundreds of feet to the left.  The Pecos river braids itself around the route through a series of slippery and narrow bridges.  (Meeting up with those too large RV's making their descent from the campgrounds is a particularly adventurous experience.)

Even this early in the season (early May) the air is lightly seasoned with the scent of woodsmoke rising from the many cabins intriguingly place on unlikely rocks and ledges along the river.  A bit further up the road riding becomes even more challenging as speed bumps built for giants began to make their appearance along with cattle gaurds which have been flooded with mud and gouged by the recently departed heavy weather.

After crossing one final bridge the road opens up onto a broad parking lot with a couple of picnic tables.  The it is possible to ride farther on into the campground but a very official sign warns in no uncertain terms, "Picnickers Must Pay."  There is an $8.00 per day fee for day use or camping in the campground proper but the aforementioned parking lot is free. 

Stopping at the free site and having a mid-ride snack is extremely pleasant.  A small fork of the the Pecos river runs bubbles by next to the picnic tables.  A short hike west reveals a network of interlocking small tributaries making their way down the high slope.  

                                                 A scene from the Pecos river

It is very peaceful except for the occasional sound of distant gunfire.  One hopes they are shooting the other way! 

         Motorcycle gloves make great drink covers and "hopefully" protect from random bullets.  

After lunch and maybe a hike,  home base is an easy 40 miles away and there is still time for a nap before dinner.

NM4 Part 2

A few meandering miles north of Jemez Pueblo lies the little town of Jemez Springs. Passing through this little burg provides ample opportunity for stopping and diving into local culture. However, the road onward beckons and this time of year (early spring) daylight is still in somewhat short supply so that exploration must wait for another day.

The road continues northward and ascends slowly through the deeply red rocks of Jemez National Monument. There is ample parking, picnic facilities and hiking in the pullout area amid the bright red rocks.







Jemez Springs National Recreational Area

The clue to the next interesting attraction is olfactory rather than visual. Traveling through a deep canyon the river is revealed through a natural waterfall appearing through a twisted mass of frozen fluid rock, obviously volcanic. Called Soda Dam, it is a popular place for people to hang out during the warm hours of the day.

Soda Dam

Passing Soda Dam the road continues upward and begins to gradually bend to the east. The riding continues to be excellent and mostly solitary until coming upon Battle Ship Rock. With ones riding head on the looking through the corners it would be extremely easy to slam on the brakes because when it first appears one has the illusion it lies directly in the path ahead.

Battleship Rock

After navigating up, over and around a couple of very technical hairpins Valles Caldera comes into view.

Also known as Jemez Caldera this 95,000 acre natural wonder is also one of the newest national preserves, passing from private to public ownership in 2000.

Note the height of the snow at 11,000 feet even in early April.  The coyote fencing is almost completely covered. 


















After passing beyond Valles Caldera NM 4 meanders pleasantly west toward the general vicinity of Los Alamos.  After negotiating another set of technical hairpins the there is a fork in the road that offers the choice of heading north into Los Alamos on NM 501 or continuing west on NM 4 toward White Rock.  On this particular journey the choice was to continue heading west.  Even passing rather far south of Los Alamos proper things can get pretty weird.  All manner of official warnings, gated-off areas and, and mysterious gadgetry punctuates the landscape.

After passing through White Rock turn south on US 84 at Pojuaque (steering clear of the tribal police) and slab it back to homebase.

  This is a ride that could easily take a couple of days if one stopped and gave justice to every worthy attraction.  Keep your eyes on these pages for more to come this summer.

Wonders along NM4

March madness has a new meaning in northern New Mexico these days. A long, hard winter is finally releasing its grip and the two wheel monsters that have been caged up inside the riders looking for any excuse to roll. In this riders case a long, free afternoon presented itself and a quick study of the map and a few calls local riders made NM4 look like a promising candidate for, finally, an afternoon's adventure.

From Santa Fe, head south on I25 towards Albuquerque, toward US 550. No matter what time of day or night the ride on I-25 down La Pajada hill is always a race. The posted speed limit is already a generous 75MPH, however the reality of the situation is that ride anything less than 90 and be mowed down like so much motor meat.

Turning west on US 550 N, go figure, proves to be a moderately frustrating experience. Skirting the northern outskirts fo the community of Rio Rancho the strip mall traffic is dangerous and annoying. Fortunately, it does not continue for too long.

The real fun begins when turning north on NM 4 at the little village of San Ysidro. Just as a side note by now the ride from Santa Fe will have covered 60 miles of slab and, depending on the range of your motorcycle, it might be a good idea to to take the opportunity to fuel up at this juncture as at least 50 miles of of motorcycling heaven stretches ahead, but the opportunities to get gas along the rest of the route are sketchy at best.

50 Miles of sweet carving lie ahead on NM4

Just a couple miles up the road lies Jemez Pueblo and it is a study in contrasts. Upon first entering from the south there is a group of modern government buildings which at first blush can give a mistaken impression of Pueblo life. Once past the official complex the road continues to ascend, but the ground falls away to the west of the road giving a good overall view of the actual working Pueblo.

Small dirt roads lead off down and to the left and large signs both invite the visitor in and also give dire warnings about the consequences of breaking tribal rules. Because pueblo life is relatively secretive this ride along the high ground gives a rare glimpse into actual conditions inside these tiny little sovereign nations.

Upon leaving Jemez Pueblo the road becomes lonely again twisting the throttle again becomes almost imperative. At this altitude the road has not been ravaged by severe winter conditions and the quality of the road and the almost perfect symmetry of the twisties remind those emerging from long winter layoff just exactly what motorcycling is about in the first place.

Next up on our little road beaded with wonders is the community of Jemez Springs. This first impression one gets upon entering the area is that of yet another impoverished New Mexico community. Small, dusty, run-down trailer park communities lie along the edges of town. Yet despite their overall dilapidated nature, many of them boast amazing artwork of various genres either attached to the dwellings themselves or on diplay in their sad little yards.

This little adobe church pictured below is a good example. Although it sports a sad looking and sagging tin roof which is painted in an unsuccessful attempt to make it look like what it is not, these features are offset by intricately designed stained glass windows and hand carved wooden doors.







The above photos illustrate the dichotomy of life on the outskirts of Jemez Sprngs

The new Road Show

Once upon a time, say five years ago, motorcycling and motorcycle travel was new, fun and exciting. It is still so, but like any good long-term relationship it has gone beyond the infatuation stage, through some of the frustrating and baffling adjustment stages, and is beginning to emerge into some form of maturity. Also, we all live in a very different world than we did five years ago.

All these factors have shaped and are re-shaping Road Show Magazine. Due to economic and time factors I have made the difficult decision to discontinue Road Show Podcast. There is quite a bit of grief associated with this, and guilt. Grief because when we started the podcast I made a promise to myself that I would keep it going no matter what. Unfortunately that is a promise to myself I can no longer keep.

Road Show Magazine as a website will continue on but in a different form that has yet to be completely determined. Many of our archives were lost due to computer and hard-drive failures and losses of back-ups during five moves in the last 18 months. So the magazine, like our lives, will be starting over. Which brings me back to the beginning of this little essay.

As a starting point for this new format I will be posting articles and media from my own personal archives from the earlier days of my travel. It has been interesting personally to review them because they recapture the excitement and romance of my early days of motorcycle traveling.

I would also like to invite more reader participation. I am not quite sure what form that will take, but please e-mail me any materials/suggestions you may have.


Thank you and I look forward to the future of Road Show as we continue on this uncertain, but interesting journey.

Cameron aka BMWeerman